In a twist of fate worthy of a culinary tale, Colchester, the oldest recorded settlement in Britain, recently celebrated its elevation to city status. With this newfound title came the expectation of an upscale dining experience, and Kintsu was poised to fill that role. However, the restaurant’s journey has been anything but smooth.
After a promising start, chef Paul Wendholt announced the abrupt closure of Kintsu in May 2025, attributing the decision to financial difficulties. The restaurant’s name is derived from the Japanese art of kintsugi, a philosophy that celebrates the beauty of imperfections. Remarkably, just four months later, Wendholt reopened Kintsu, showcasing his resilience and dedication to the culinary arts.
Now, one year later, Kintsu offers a meticulously crafted eight-course meal for £90 in a quaint Grade II-listed venue, tucked away near a multi-storey car park. While the location might lack charm, the food tells a different story. Guests can indulge in dishes like treacle-cured Dingley Dell pork from Suffolk, paired with local Colchester cherries and amaretto, proving that sometimes, the best meals are found in the most unexpected places.
Fonte/Origem: https://www.theguardian.com/food/2026/sep/06/kintsu-colchester-essex-restaurant-review-grace-dent